Beijing's historic, cultural, and political preeminence dates back nearly six centuries. Yet, in spite of devastating urban renewal, modern Beijing continues to convey an imperial grandeur. New temples to communism, the Great Hall of the People, Chairman Mao's Mausoleum, convey the monumental power that still resides within the city's secret courtyards.
Its 12 million residents are a compelling mix of old and new. Early morning tai chi enthusiasts, bearded old men with caged songbirds, and amateur Peking Opera crooners still frequent the city's many charming parks. Cyclists, most pedaling cumbersome, jet-black Flying Pigeons, clog the roadways. But few wear padded blue Mao jackets these days, and they all must share the city's broad thoroughfares with trendy Chinese yuppies and their private cars.
The best time to visit Beijing is spring or early fall, when the weather is pleasant and crowds are a bit smaller. Book at least one month in advance for travel during these two times of year. In winter, Beijing's Forbidden City and Summer Palace can look fantastical and majestic when the traditional tiled roofs are covered with a light dusting of snow and the venues are devoid of tourists.
Beijing rewards the explorer. Most temples and palaces have gardens and lesser courtyards that are seldom visited. Be curious. Even at the height of the summer tourist rush, the Forbidden City's peripheral courtyards offer ample breathing room, even seclusion. The Temple of Heaven's vast grounds are a pleasure year-round and enchanting during a snowstorm.
Although the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square represent the heart of Beijing from imperial and tourist perspectives, the capital lacks a definitive downtown area in terms of shopping (with the exception, perhaps, of Wangfujing) or business, as commercial and entertainment districts have arisen all over.